Australia West Coast Bike Ride
Newsletter No 3 - Day 11
26th June 2004

Dear All
Sitting under an escarpment at Saddle Creek, NT, seeking what shade we can, I realise after losing last week's "bulletin" I have a lot of catching up to do. So much to tell-----------

Right back to Day 1 - the Glenti Festival was fabulous. The Greek community of Darwin got right behind us, fed us well on grilled octopus and greek cakes, gave us lots of publicity and our "bucket rattle" raised over $400. The Mayor gave the countdown at 12 noon 10-9-8 etc after a nice speech and got the cyclists on the way, and T&L stayed behind with Frank and Norma to try for more donations, but once the cycles left, we lost impact. After reluctant farewells with the Mills family (they were just so fantastic to all of us) we rolled along and caught up with the bikes "out of town" and camped at the outermost camp park of the Darwin limits. Then it was Bike Ride in earnest.

Queen's Birthday was horrific - the traffic on the Stuart hwy was unbelievable - it was hot, noisy, and the bikes were covered in fumes - Ted had a bad day - a puncture and a break in his pannier carrier, so on arrival at Adelaide River, the 3 men went to the pub for a well-deserved beer and left the girls to do "girly" things! So hot - well into the 30's, made it tough for John and he started blistering straight away. From then on it has got better.

Took us 3 more days to get to Katherine - a very heavy head wind lowered the projected 15 kms p.h. down to 10-11 kms, traffic eased a little so it was a case of just plod along. The start of our bush camping then commenced - whenever it is necessary for John to stop - well, that is it. One night at a deserted ex camping site at Emerald Springs,------- TRUE STORY --- No facilities, no water, but the delicensed pub up the road let us have a shower in what was a motel unit 4 years ago, no light and crawling with amphibians, and Pam had the quickest shower I've ever seen, WITH HER SHOES ON so as not to step on the frogs in the shower recess and on the curtains (she swore there might have been snakes too). Green tree frogs everywhere- in the toilet bowls and for a lady - look out, when flushed, they come out from under the ceramic rim (yes, Margaret, it is true). Somewhat disconcerting! It was nearly a relief to have the next night in the bush near the railway line where next day we did hear the Ghan, but it was just out of sight unfortunately.

David N - your little loo house is marvellous!

Day 5 was incredible. Just down the road a little car stops and a very excited young man hopped out - "I have been looking for you since yesterday". Introduced himself as Brian someone, of the ABC, and presenter of the "Bush Telegraph" programme which apparently has a large listener audience up here. He had heard about these nutty cyclists and wanted to do a programme on the exciting things older (ho hum) people get up to. His eyes nearly fell out of his head when he saw John - no-one had told him a "legless" man was included! Well, he couldn't get his microphone out quick enough, but then decided to drive back to Katherine and we followed, picked him up, back to the bikes by then 12 kms out of town - he hopped onto Pam's bike (she had to come into the van) and rode all the way into Katherine beside John with the mike and did a roving interview, road noise and all. He felt this to be rather authentic! Will go to air in July but I don't suppose we will ever hear it.

Katherine - Small Rotary Club - 11 members and population not much smaller than B'dale. We were hosted in 3 homes and looked after like royalty. Spent 2 nights there - they held a BBQ in our honour at their Rotary Park and proudly showed off their project to make a fun park for the youth of the area. Left to our own devices during the day - washing, shopping etc. and abandoned John at his working family's home so he had no excuse but to sit and rest those blisters - worked wonders. The hospitality of the club was fabulous. Left them Saturday morning 19th and by "turning the corner" westwards, at last the wind wasn't quite the same problem. Morning tea break (we stop every 2 hours for tea or drinks) a car pulls up - out step Geoff and Helen Reddick - very thrilled to find us. Lots chatter as anyone knowing Helen would know. They are heading west but aiming for Kununurra in one day whereas we will take seven. Night bush stop.

Day 8 - This was Brahman day and lots of interesting roadside stories, however -arrived at the Gregory National Park, Sullivan campsite, at the same time as a busload of aboriginal women - all to use the one pit toilet - thought this could be interesting! However they'd come from some alcohol free thing and moved on. Each listed campsite is overflowing with campers by 3 pm each day, so we just squeezed ourselves in and as you can imagine, we create a little interest so spend an hour or so explaining what we are about and as each day goes by, we are finding more and more people have heard about us from a variety of sources. They are great and we often manage a $5 or $10 donation, but just on dusk "Saint" Kath wandered up - a dear lady we'd been chatting to earlier, and offered her services as a donation - she is a qualified massage therapist! Well, Pam nearly knocked her over in the rush to the nearest picnic table whereupon a blissful hour ensued - John followed (neck & shoulders only) butTed was a bit shy! It's a tough life on the road!

Our cycling pace does not allow us to get to designated sites too often, so a couple more bush camps via Victoria River,(where we saw our first wild crocodile) and a shower stop at Timber Creek yesterday, and tonight (Wed 23rd) we have company.

Weather - every day still hot 30ish but the nights - boy have they turned cold dropping down to 8 deg and last night 6 deg.
Daily routine now emerging - up at 6am, still dark till 6.40, breakfast under the stars at break of day, cyclists hit the road 7.30 or so,the Bullets (back-up Lois & Terry) pack up camp behing them then follow along behind with the Caution Cyclist banners on back - there is no way we can sit behind all the way, it is too slow for the vehicle - each hour we catch up then sit by the roadside in full view of traffic then move on again. They have regular stops tho carry lots of water and snack bars for energy but still like that cup of tea.after 2 hours. 3/4 hr break for lunch, then pedal as they feel long enough. John's blisters now toughening up but need nurturing and the other two keep a close eye on him all the way. All eating is outdoors, the temperature now drops radically with the sun, dark at 7 pm and into bed by 8. Ted and Pam pitch their own little tents each night, and John is in the Mitsubishi. The White's have the luxury of real beds.

Communication is Nil - no hope of phones more than 5 km out of any "town", so the emails stack up till next chance. One more night then we will ride into Kununurra Friday (25th) morning. Been in touch with our contact there OK
As you will gather, we cannot keep to that original schedule as on the web site - that was drawn up when they were riding 2 wheelers two years ago - so John and Ted are asking JB if the dates can be taken off the web site as it will create concern with us not keeping to it - can you leave the month only and as close as possible we will notify onward clubs (and you) of our pace as we go.

All are well, and I have to say - really enjoying the experience. The scenery is magnificent.

I'll try and attach some photos.
From the Team.